Saleh’s Plate · By Saleh Alkhalifa

Yumma’s Chicken Biriyani

Name: Yumma’s Chicken Biriyani
Cuisine: Indian, Saudi Arabian
Ingredients: 1½ kg bone-in, skinless chicken thighs and drumsticks; 1 cup full-fat plain yogurt; 2 tbsp lemon juice; 2 tbsp grated fresh ginger; 6 garlic cloves, finely grated; 2 tsp garam masala; 1 tsp Saudi baharat; 1 tsp ground cumin; 1 tsp ground coriander; ½ tsp turmeric and ½ tsp cayenne pepper; 1½ tsp fine salt; 3 cups aged basmati rice; 3 large onions, thinly sliced; ½ cup ghee, divided; 2 bay leaves, 6 green cardamom pods, 6 cloves, and 2 cinnamon sticks; 1 dried black lime (loomi), pierced twice; 2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped; 2 green chilies, split lengthwise; 1 cup packed cilantro leaves, roughly chopped; 1 cup packed mint leaves, roughly chopped; ¼ cup warm milk mixed with a large pinch of saffron; 1 tbsp rose water; Salt, for the rice water; ½ cup slivered almonds, toasted; ⅓ cup golden raisins, briefly sautéed in ghee; Cucumber yogurt and lemon wedges, to serve

Yumma’s biriyani stays close to the beloved Indian original: fragrant basmati rice, deeply spiced chicken, fried onions, herbs, and a gentle dum steam. Dried black lime, Saudi baharat, almonds, and golden raisins bring a warm Saudi accent without changing the soul of the dish.

Ingredients

Chicken marinade

1½ kg bone-in, skinless chicken thighs and drumsticks
1 cup full-fat plain yogurt
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp grated fresh ginger
6 garlic cloves, finely grated
2 tsp garam masala
1 tsp Saudi baharat
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp turmeric and ½ tsp cayenne pepper
1½ tsp fine salt

Rice and aromatics

3 cups aged basmati rice
3 large onions, thinly sliced
½ cup ghee, divided
2 bay leaves, 6 green cardamom pods, 6 cloves, and 2 cinnamon sticks
1 dried black lime (loomi), pierced twice
2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
2 green chilies, split lengthwise
1 cup packed cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
1 cup packed mint leaves, roughly chopped
¼ cup warm milk mixed with a large pinch of saffron
1 tbsp rose water
Salt, for the rice water

Saudi-style finish

½ cup slivered almonds, toasted
⅓ cup golden raisins, briefly sautéed in ghee
Cucumber yogurt and lemon wedges, to serve

Instructions

Mix the yogurt, lemon, ginger, garlic, ground spices, and salt. Coat the chicken thoroughly, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.
Heat half the ghee in a wide heavy pot. Fry the sliced onions in batches until deeply golden and crisp. Drain on paper towels, reserving the fragrant ghee. Set half the onions aside for layering and garnish.
Return 2 tablespoons of the reserved ghee to the pot. Add the bay leaves, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and pierced loomi; cook for 30 seconds. Add the marinated chicken and cook over medium-high heat until lightly browned. Stir in the tomatoes and green chilies, then simmer uncovered for 15–20 minutes, until the chicken is nearly cooked and the masala is thick rather than watery.
Meanwhile, rinse the basmati until the water runs mostly clear and soak for 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Drain the rice, add it to the boiling water, and cook until about 70 percent done—the grain should bend but still have a firm center. Drain immediately.
Keep the chicken and its masala in an even layer. Scatter over half the cilantro, mint, and reserved fried onions. Add the parboiled rice without pressing it down. Finish with the remaining herbs and onions, then drizzle over the saffron milk, rose water, and remaining ghee.
Cover the pot tightly with foil and a lid. Cook over very low heat for 25 minutes, then turn off the heat and rest, still covered, for 15 minutes. This gentle steam finishes the rice while keeping the grains separate.
Remove the whole spices and loomi if easy to find. Gently lift the rice and chicken together from the bottom rather than stirring vigorously. Spoon onto a large platter and finish with toasted almonds and golden raisins. Serve with cucumber yogurt and lemon wedges.